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Oh hey! I recently posted about some white wine gems here so how’s about some reds? Yes, there are other red grapes in Sicily. But right now, the Etna DOC is gunning to become a DOCG (it’s like a DOC with a master’s), so now seems like an apt time to examine their star grape: Nerello Mascalese.
Okay I will pay lip service to other notable reds–the most notable of which is likely Nero d’Avola. They also do Frappato and a few other outliers (always with the Italian outliers). But anyway.
Today we are focusing on the Etna DOC and its signature grape, Nerello Mascalese. Yes, the Etna DOC is named for Mount Etna which is in fact an active stratovolcano–last eruption was actually August 15th–apparently it in an “eruption period’ that began in 2021 and in six months added 30 meters to its height?! That’s going on 100 feet. That’s a lot of lava, and a lot of winegrowers guts. I couldn’t stomach the risk, then again I live in SoCal where earthquakes visit during–omg–we have hurricanes now and if it isn’t pilot season, screener season or awards season it’s fire or mudslide season so what do I know from risk? All the same I really admire winemakers with the guts to farm a volcano.
The risk pays off though…the wines those volcanic soils upon slopes produce can be quite exquisite–PLEASE Italy, give them a DOCG already? Oh yes, as I mentioned, Etna is a DOC but applied to get that G for Garantita. As for Nerello Mascalese, Nerello refers to the black-toned color of the grape (Nerello Cappuccio for the same reason). It ripens late. It is lighter in body and tannins and veers towards the red fruit spectrum of flavors. Rather than bore you with generic terms, how about some recent gems (again with the stones! I need a new metaphor) that I tasted?
Okay, here we go:
2020 Tenuta Tascante Ghiaia Nera Etna Rosso she’s totally Nerello Mascalese and also 100% light with attitude. Lithe tannins, brisk acid, but serious fruit from blood oranges and freeze-dried raspberry to cherry cordial. Damn. Also spicy–like white pepper and a bit of fennel. With every sip I get something new. With time some blueberries and herbal tannins and show up and it contains multitudes.
2019 Familglia Statella Pignatuni Etna Rosso 95% Nerello Mascalese and 5% unnamed “native white and black grapes.” Chill serene tranquil ruby red, quite translucent. The nose is cherry-rich–and maybe a hint of VA? But that blew off fast if it was ever there. Slight peps of allspice and nutmeg, maybe some licorice. The palate has such charming felt-y tannins and yet more red fruits with maybe perhaps kinda sorta some…menthol? I believe so. It’s brisk this, Nerello. The finish becomes rather molten and a touch cocoa-y. Geez, it’s great.
