Above, below—not like heaven. And also, maybe below isn’t necessarily like above. All this is talking of the latitude-ist, dare I say hemispere-ist language dividing this earth.
Much like a midwesterner can make art/film/etc as well as the coastal art-thletes, (that’s the NYC v LA competition), so can the two hemispheres compete. So. Why not a little healthy bout?
The Aussie samples come from Yarra Valley, a cooler climate region in Victoria, Australia’s southeast. The Cali ones come from Sonoma Valley’s Russian River Valley.
THIS IS A VALLEY-OFF!!!
I thought comparing the two would be fun, given that both are from regions in their respective countries producing high-quality Pinot and Chard and are known for being, well, if not cool-climate (which Yering Station’s Yarra Valley is) at least a more well-tempered region (which Davis Bynum’s Russian River is).
I think this exercise is more about appreciating the nuances than ranking one wine or region above the other. FUN! Unless you exist in reality tv and EVERYTHING is a contest. My blog is not. My blog is to spread wine joy. So. Speaking of the grape, I just can’t get enough of…
Let us have a go Chard first, ya?
2021 Yering Station Chardonnay Hand-picked, barrel-fermented, aged in a touch of oak, yet at first blush I get those funfun steely gunflint notes–while the winemaking was not particularly oxygen-limited, perhaps the screwcap (contrary to USA opinions NOT a sign of lower quality, especially in Australia or NZ). It also gives loads of pink grapefruit citrus, riper apricots, and gooseberry on the nose. The palate is bracing but wealthy–it has pluck but is well-supported: ripe and underripe fruit mimicking the nose, joining in with more creamy and oak-derived spice joining the chorus. It finishes the vibrant, acidic fruit mingling with the oak, a citric punch coming in at the end.
2022 Davis Bynum Russian River Valley Chardonnay Interestingly, it gives more orchard fruit than the Yering–apples and pears, possibly repping that the Russian River is a tad warmer? The overall impression is softer–nostalgic baking spice vibes complementing the apples-pear cidar jams (in every sense). Okay, I’m gonna say this gives autumn/Christmas vibes, whereas the Yering is more spring summer–which is interesting, given their seasons are reversed. Wow, what is life?
2021 Yering Station Pinot Noir Dusky in appearance–as in it is mostly transparent but there are slight garnet tinges at the watery rim. It smells of black cherry pottage, autumn leaves and autumn coffee (allspice heavy). The palate shows both rather ripe fruit, bordering on jam-ripe but with vibrant acidity and a cavalcade of other fun flavors: slight menthol, black tea, and cinnamon stick. It finishes nicely balanced with bitter weaving through the ripe.
2021 Davis Bynum Russian River Valley Pinot Noir It’s interesting (omg, I did the Chard one day with the Pinots separately. Why am I bracing you with “interesting” again?) in that it almost gives Oregon vibes in wealth of herbs and earth. Still, it brings through sapid fruit, but all over, it is so much more savory than the Yering. Honestly, I think which YOU would prefer would depend on you, dearest reader. Or (like me) your mood or what you are eating. I get a cola, black cherry, and all the spices in the profile.
So, what is my take-home message? Wow, I don’t have one. I suppose the base is “drink good wine,” which may depend on your standards—recognizable name, known region, and qualifications (organic, biodynamic, etc.). And…literally, I was into both iterations of Pinot and Chard these producers yielded. I CAN say both were exemplary of what the “new world” can do with classic varieties. I CAN say I would definitely drink both of these producers again!